We had a lovely, relaxing breakfast and then sailed in light winds to the Customs Office at Jost Van Dyke. Once we had cleared into the BVIs, we motored over to Little Jost Van Dyke. Our usual anchorage in Manchioneel Bay was full, so we found a new spot in East End Harbour.
We dinghied to shore, but it was so shallow that I got out and pulled the other three (as if they were sitting in their little red wagon) to shore. We tied the dinghy to a tree and walked about a quarter mile to Foxy's Taboo Restaurant. After a delicious lunch, we walked to the Bubbly Pool where water was pounding through the rocks (about every tenth wave) and making a lovely, refreshing bubbly pool.
After we hiked back and dinghied to the boat, we decided to lift anchor and move to Brewers Bay for the night. Bad idea. When we were almost there, the northern ground swells started rolling in and I could envision a very rolly night. We turned around and headed back to Little Jost Van Dyke where we found a crowded anchorage in Manchioneel Bay. I got up several times in the night to check our position and the boats around us. No one seemed to be dragging their anchor, so we were just fine.
Thursday, February 16, 2017
This morning we sailed on a close reach to Marina Cay in a light wind. Once we had anchored in our favourite spot near the reef, we went in snorkelling. This spot has the most amazingly, perfect specimens of brain coral and purple fan coral. I also saw two puffer fish, several parrot fish, blue tangs, and zebra fish.
Later, we dinghied over to Scrub Island Resort for drinks and a walk around, then returned to the boat. Once the sun set, we dinghied to Pussers on the tiny island of Marina Cay and had a very expensive, not so great, meal. On the way back, a trumpet fish jumped out of the water ahead of the dinghy. I love watching the wonders of nature everywhere we turn.
Friday, February 17, 2017
At 10:15 am, we motored all the way from the east end of Tortola to the west end, Jo at the helm, to Soper's Hole. It took us about two and a half hours, which gave me lots of time to plan our route back to Florida, via Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, the Turks and Caicos, and the Bahamas. Carey pointed out all of the sights (three cruise ships in Road Town, Nanny Cay Marina where we first stopped on arrival to the BVIs, and the fort on Buck Island).
Once we arrived in Soper's Hole, we were chagrined to find no available mooring balls. Aaarrrrgggghhhh! We dropped anchor in 55 feet of water (not ideal), and figured we'd have to leave before nightfall. Carey, Jo, and Craig jumped into the dinghy and took our laundry over to our favourite laundress, at Divine Laundry. Truly, she does a divine job (and saves us from the heat of the laundromat). When they returned, I had lunch ready for them--gourmet KD florentine and wieners, topped with salsa. It was a big hit.
Before Carey had quite finished his lunch, a mooring ball opened up just ahead. We quickly lifted anchor and scooped it up before anyone else could get it. Carey finished his lunch, Craig took a nap, and Jo and I read our books for a restful afternoon.
Later, we dinghied over to the dock, sauntered around, window shopped, and then picked up our laundry by 5:00. All clean and folded. Gotta love it.
Saturday, February 18, 2017
Breakfast was a disaster at D'Best Cup. It was race day, so we should have guessed that it would be crowded. Our order was very slooooow to arrive, and Jo and Craig had to ask to get theirs (several minutes after ours had arrived), and then both of our bills were wrong. When I told the waitress that her calculations were wrong the second time, she asked me to figure it out and to tell her what the total should be. So much for D'Best Cup.
After clearing out at Customs, we left Soper's Hole for the last time. Jo took the helm part way and sailed us to Benures Bay.
Once there, we had some lunch and then Craig went in snorkelling. He was impressed, so Jo and I went in, too. Best snorkelling ever! I saw a crab, the body of which was almost as big as my outstretched hand, hanging onto a large frond of purple fan coral. As well, there were Blueheaded Wrasses, Fairy Basslets, a Highhat with its tall black fin coming out of the top of its head, several types of Grunts, Sergeant Majors, Parrotfish, and many different types of Angelfish, including the Foureye Butterflyfish. Wow! Jo also spotted a large tarpon. We were so glad we had gone in. (Can you tell I bought a card with pics and the names of Caribbean fish?) It's nice to know what we're looking at.
Sunday, February 19, 2017
We left Benures Bay at 10:00, and Jo motored us toward Lameshur Bay (with a light wind directly on our stern). By 10:15, we had a ten knot wind, so we put up the sails on a broad reach. Jo sailed us all the way there, with Craig helping us gybe. Upon arrival at Lameshur Bay, Jo stayed on the helm, took us into the bay, and motored to the mooring ball, where Craig picked up the pennant and tied us to the ball. Great job by both of them!
After a homemade pizza lunch, I was relaxing in the cockpit and saw a dinner plate sized stingray jump out of the water. So awesome!
Later, we all went snorkelling. Jo saw a squirrelfish, a school of blue tangs, a banded butterfly fish, and a porcupine fish. I saw a turtle buried in the sand, a slinky black eel, a stingray, and a flounder that laid flat on a rock and seemed to totally disappear, it was so well camouflaged. There are tons of turtles and long-spined sea urchins in this bay, too. Nature is truly amazing.
Monday, February 20, 2017
Last night Jo mixed up a batch of homemade bread, so we enjoyed that for breakfast. Always yummy.
Jo sailed us all the way to Cruz Bay, and Craig worked the sails. Usually our guests leave just after we have trained them for a week, but Jo and Craig are staying, so they'll be able to take over and Carey and I can put our feet up!
We had lunch at the Ocean Grill, our favourite spot in Cruz Bay. You know we've been there a few times when the waiter greets us like old friends. Haha. Afterward, we walked to the Starfish Market for provisions. I estimated it at about a quarter mile away, Carey estimated it at about a half mile, and Craig said it felt more like 2 miles. We never did measure it, but we needed the exercise, however long it was.
After we bought out the store, we walked back the quarter mile, half mile, or two mile stretch. During the walk back, a gust of wind grabbed my hat from behind, flipping it off my head. It went rolling down the street--the classic Three Stooges act--the hat stopping and then flipping away every time I bent to pick it up. Two cars stopped to avoid running it over. Finally, Craig was able to snag it out of the middle of the street. Crisis averted, hat on head, chin strap tight, we resumed our short long walk.
After dinghying back to the boat, Jo and I stowed the provisions until Carey came down to report a black cloud moving in and suggested we hustle to get out of there. We lifted anchor, and motored out, trying to avoid several dinghies, motor boats, and ferries that were all coming in at the same time. Just outside the bay, Jo spotted two dolphins! I couldn't believe it! I've been looking for dolphins in vain the whole time I've been in the Virgin Islands! Of course, one finally appears when I'm trying to avoid crazy boat traffic and there's a storm on the way. Sheesh!
Just outside of Cruz Bay the skies opened up. We had a torrential downpour. Jo said it was intense. I had my eyes peeled for other boats and could barely see. Carey, Jo, and I were soaked to the skin within minutes. Craig had retreated to the comfort of our salon belowdecks. He stayed dry, smart guy. Craig said it was nice, because he was inside. 'There's no reason for the cabin boy to get wet,' he said. He did his inside duties while down there, i.e., vacuuming, etc.
We arrived at Great Harbor (the Ritz' bay) just after four o'clock and anchored. The sun came up, we dried out, and we relaxed before dinner.
Tuesday, February 21, 2017
Jo made us a delicious omelette with bacon and toast for breakfast. After breakfast, though, we realized we had run out of water. The sink full of dirty dishes had to sit there for a while. Ugh. Just then, a young Canadian guy came over from another boat. He had noticed that we were fellow Canadians, so he came over for a chat. Martin (S/Y Blush) was extremely knowledgeable about batteries and lots of local knowledge stuff so we picked his brain--for about three hours! It was after 1:00 by the time he left.
We decided to go to Red Hook for the night, fuel up, fill our water tanks, and investigate the purchase of a Honda or Yamaha generator to recharge the batteries while cruising (without having to go to a dock).
Docking at American Yacht Harbor was its usual treat. This is a ridiculous dock. We have to lasso the spiles at the bow while backing up to a high dock. It's very difficult to make a graceful landing. However, we eventually got in and got tied up. By then it was after two o'clock, so we celebrated by going to the Tap and Still for burgers and fresh cut fries.
Later, we bought oil for our oil change, dropped off our laundry, and signed into the marina. We relaxed on the boat and had a late dinner before bed.
Wednesday, February 22, 2017
This morning, Carey and I took the Safari Taxi to Charlotte Amalie. It's an open air, covered truck and people get on and off along the route. When people get on, they say, "Good morning" and the rest of us reply in kind. It's a lovely custom. We went by the K-Mart, Home Depot, and lots of small markets and establishments. The whole ride was only $2 per person. What a deal!
When we got to town we walked to Offshore Marine, where we bought some parts for our diesel engine. We also looked at a generator to keep our batteries in good shape, but they didn't have a suitable one. While there, we got chatting to another boater, Chris Matthews. He gave us lots of information about cruising through the Dominican Republic and offered to drive us back into the centre of town. Boaters are the friendliest people!
We stopped at a large straw market, had lunch at Fat Turtle, and caught another Safari Taxi back to Red Hook. This time, the cab was $10 each! Go figure. This is so typical here. The price varies depending on who you are (they thought we were cruise ship people, I'm sure) and who they are and how big their mortgage is or how many kids they have to feed. Oh, well, it's part of the life here.
While we were gone, Jo and Craig spent hours cleaning the boat, inside and out. They also picked up the laundry and a few more provisions, and paid for another night at the marina. So nice!
Now it was time for Carey and I to get to work. It was engine maintenance day. We changed the oil and oil filter, changed the fuel filter, inspected the impeller, adjusted the alternator V belt, and drained the water/fuel separator. This doesn't sound like too long of a list, but we have to practically tear the boat apart to get to the areas we need.
By the time we were done, we were all starving. Craig made Sloppy Joes and I cut up some veggies for a late dinner. After Craig and Jo went to bed, Carey and I did the dishes, remade our entire bed (including storing the canvas screens flat under the mattress), and had showers. It was midnight before we got to bed. We were tired out!
Thursday, February 23, 2017
This morning, we had a few more things to do before we could leave Red Hook. We topped off the water tanks, bought a few more provisions, bought more rust inhibitor spray, and cleaned up breakfast dishes. Everyone pitched in, as usual.
Leaving the dock was lots of fun, as usual at these docks, but we managed it with Carey on the helm. He handed it over to me moments later, and then it started to rain. The other three threw the cushions down below and scuttled after them, leaving me in the rain. No use everyone getting wet! Carey and Jo got me a hat and raincoat, so I was fine. The rain stopped very soon after and we motored to Charlotte Amalie. We need to clear out at Customs and refill our propane tanks, then it's off to Honeymoon Bay on Water Island for the night.